Belly (Bhundi): Widest part/area of the blade.

Bevel (Patti): Slope from the main body until the sharp edge.

Bolster (Kanjo): Thick metal/brass round shaped plate between blade and handle made to support and reinforce the fixture.

Butt Cap (Chapri): Thick metal/brass plate used to secure the handle to the tang.

Cho/Notch (Kaudi): A distintive cut (numeric 3 like shape) in the edge functioned as a blood dropper and others.

Edge (Dhaar): Sharp edge of the blade.

Fuller (Chirra): Curvature/Hump in the blade made to absorb impact and to reduce unnecessary weight.

Fuller/Groove (Khol): Straight groove or deep line that runs along part of the upper spine.

Keeper (Hira Jornu): Spade/Diamond shaped metal/brass plate used to seal the butt cap.

Main body (Ang): Main surface or panel of the blade.

Peak (Juro): Highest point of the blade.

Ricasso (Ghari): Blunt area between notch and bolster.

Rings (Harhari): Round circles in the handle.

Rivet (Khil): Steel or metal bolt to fasten or secure tang to the handle.

Spine (Beet): Thickest blunt edge of the blade.

Tang (Paro): Rear piece of the blade that goes through the handle

Tang Tail (Puchchar): Last point of the khukuri blade.

Tip (Toppa): Starting point of the blade.

# Polished Version:
The polished or shiny version of a khukuri blade goes through a number of processing and treatment after the tempering or hardening of the blade where heat is generated in the blade so there is a fair bit of chance that the tempering is withdrawn from the blade resulting into slightly weakening the blade’s hardness or strength. Highly recommended for display, decoration, gifting and good for working/cutting.

# Semi Polished Version:
Semi polished version goes through three stages of processing in order to achieve the outcome. The treatments generate heat in the blade so some tempering or hardening of the blade is withdrawn. However unlike the polished version, as many and much treatments are not required thus the temper retains more. Recommended for display and better to work with or cutting.

# Unpolished Version:
The unpolished is the best version for working or cutting because almost all of the temper or hardness gets intact. The blade is only grinded in a grinder and sand polished in a wheel machine to get the outcome so very less tempering is withdrawn, almost all is retained. Good for display but best for working.

# Fuller / Groove:
A curvature/s that run along the main surface/body especially made for two specific objectives; to reduce the unnecessary weight of the blade and to withstand the direct impact generated from the strike against the edge of the blade. The curvature will evenly distribute the force produced in an execution in a wavy motion towards the spine of the blade lessening the stress faced by the edge. Fuller version is recommended for heavy stressful work.

# Full Flat Tang (Dotted / Panawal):
Where the tang of the blade is flat and goes all the way through the handle and is secured by steel rivets from both sides. The flat thick tang is also visible on the sides of the handle. Two pieces of handle materials are fixed to the sides of the tang to complete the fixture. Bolster, butt cap, keeper, rivets, glue are used to strongly secure all the fittings. Highly recommended for heavy duty work.

# Rat Tail Tang (Normal / Basic):
Most common type of tang where the flat tang is triangular shaped having wider area at the blade portion and becomes narrower as it finishes towards the butt end. The tang goes all the way through the handle and secured tightly from the back by butt cap and keeper. Only the end or tail of the tang is visible from outside. Since the tang has an overall look of a rat’s tail it is called so.